UPDATE: Please participate in our anonymous POLL. It's for a really good cause!
So over the past few months, I've been conducting my own independent tests of a few different batteries for use with my eCigs. There's a huge disparity of information out on the internet about "what's the best", so instead of concerning myself with "what's the best", I want to answer a different question...
WHAT WORKS GOOD?
Having been involved in the electronics world for the past 30 some-odd years, I've had a lot of experience dealing with all sorts of rechargeable cells. I won't mesmerize you with the depth and breadth of that knowledge here today, because it's irrelevant. If you need charts and graphs, move along as you won't find any here. Just know this - I want to help steer you away from OBVIOUS JUNK, but I also don't want you to have to break the bank in order to get a good, reliable and consistent setup. Fair? Good.
Just know this, there is no such thing as the "best battery". Yes, there are many that are bad, but I don't believe there's any such thing as "best".
For the sake of completeness, I want it to be known WHAT these batteries were tested in. I have tested each of these batteries inside of:
a. VAMO V2
b. SmokeTech Natural
c. Sigelei Mechanical Mod #19
d. VAMO V3 (added 10/20/2013)
e. Grand Vapor Private V2-clone (added 10/20/2013)
#1 - Samsung ICR18650-26F (unprotected)
I'm starting with this particular battery for a reason. As the model number of this battery suggests, this is a 2600mAh battery. This is the first "cell" that I purchased for use in my first APV, the VAMO. I originally purchased 2 of these in order to swap one out while charging. This battery has performed so well in my tests, that I now have a grand total of *6* of them in rotation. I selected this battery from a universe of 1,000's of possible cells. I chose it, because it's made by Samsung. Samsung's technology for producing batteries is second to none and I TRUST these batteries. What do I trust them to do? I trust them to be reliable, to have a good life and to do exactly what I ask of them. In other words, if you do something stupid and they leak/explode, you don't blame the battery, you blame the user.
Some will use their batteries until the charge runs out and then replace the battery. I do not subscribe to this irresponsible usage of a rechargeable battery. I swap my battery every 24 hours, whether it's dead or not. And let me tell you, these batteries DO last a full 24 hours PLUS. I smoked 2 packs of Analogs a day for 30 years, so it's safe to say that I'd be considered a "heavy Vaper". I've done PLENTY of Sub-Ohm Vaping using these batteries and plenty of 2.4-2.8 Ohm Vaping as well. No matter what I do, these batteries have lasted at least 24 hours and have done so for months as of this writing.
They hold a charge EXTREMELY WELL. After 6 days of sitting on a shelf waiting to be used, these batteries are still testing out at 4.19V. I highly recommend these batteries - HIGHLY!
Update 10/20/2013 - First of all, I want to thank Katya for the plug on e-cig forums. Second, I just wanted to let you all know that I'm STILL using the same 6 - ICR-18650-26F's that I wrote about in this review. No problems, no issues, 100% reliable. If / when they die, I'll be sure and update this.
Update 3/30/2015 - It's 2015 and I'm STILL using the same 6 Samsung batteries I purchased in 2013! Samsung is really the one to beat, as far as reliability goes.
#2 - Samsung ICR18650-30B (protected)
Early on in my Vaping life, I came across many people talking about the severe dangers associated with the rechargeable batteries used for Vaping. For the most part, the cautionary tales are true. In reality, most of you will never have a problem. Problems are the exception, not the rule. As the model number of this battery suggests, this is a 3000mAh battery.
I purchased 2 of these cells and I have been testing these for about 2 months. One test I ran, was a shelf-life test. After 30 days, the charge was metered at 4.17V, not bad. These cells are protected and as such are LONGER than an unprotected cell. They DO NOT FIT in most non-telescopic mods, such as the SmokTech Natural. There's only a 4mm difference between this one and the unprotected Samsung 2600mAh cell, but due to the way that non-telescoping mods are made, it's a non-starter. These WILL NOT FIT into a VAMO V2 (and I suspect the V1 & V3 as well). Don't even try it, the pressure from FORCING the battery cap on will undoubtedly break the small circuit board.
These batteries have proven to be reliable, they pass my 24 hour requirement, AND as they're made by Samsung, I have enough faith in these cells to recommend them.
#3 - TrustFire 18650 - 3000mAh (protected)
There's a lot of misinformation floating around on the net about any battery with the word "Fire" in its name. Here's what you need to know. They OVER-RATE them.
This is TrustFires higher-end cell and it's the reason that I chose them. While the battery is clearly labeled as "3000 mAh", there's published information available on the internet that shows these batteries are only 2600mAh. Is that a problem for me? Nope. I've been using Samsung 2600mAh batteries now for months and there's PLENTY of charge for my needs.
I purchased 2 of these and I have been testing them for 2 months. Much like the Samsung ICR18650-30B, their shelf-life is impressive. Tested at 4.19V after 30 days of sitting on a shelf.
These cells are protected and as such are LONGER than an unprotected cell. There's only a 3.9mm difference between this one and the unprotected Samsung 2600mAh cell, but due to the way that non-telescoping mods are made, it's a non-starter. These WILL NOT FIT into a VAMO V2 (and I suspect the V1 & V3 as well). Don't even try it, the pressure from FORCING the battery cap on will undoubtedly break the small circuit board.
These batteries have proven to be reliable, they also pass my 24 hour requirement. The big question that I have to answer, is can I responsibly recommend them? Well, they're made in China and like it or not, Chinese made batteries are not made to the same standard as most Korean made ones. Knowing that, the question is, "do I trust the protection circuit?". While China hasn't quite gotten the "battery thing" figured out yet, their ability to produce IC's and circuit boards is good enough even for Apple to have their stuff made there. If you follow safe practices for handling rechargeable batteries, I'd say YES, go ahead and get a pair and see if you like them. Remember, TRUST IS NOT GIVEN, IT IS EARNED. A product can only EARN your trust if you give it a chance.
#4 - EFest 18350 - 800mAh V2 (unprotected)
Truth be told, I only purchased these batteries for ONE REASON. I bought them to test out the ability of my VAMO to handle higher voltages when there's a greater supply voltage. At 800mAh, I consider these batteries almost useless FOR ME. On average, I get only about 4 hours of use out of them. Are they defective? No, they're just half the size of an 18650 and can't FIT enough power in them to be useful.
If you need to have the "smallest mod possible", then you're probably going to want 18350's. Just be prepared to have extra batteries in your pocket, your glove compartment or in your purse.
Do I recommend them? I only recommend them if you need to Vape at anything higher than 6V or if you have the "tiny mod complex". They don't pass my 24 hour requirement, but they are manufactured by a known reliable company, so I can't say "don't buy them". As with anything, your mileage my vary...
#5 - Standard eGo-C 1100mAh (protected)
You might be asking yourself WHY I would bother to throw this into my 18650 & 18350 Battery Review. Let me tell you why. I threw it in here for a LONGEVITY comparison that I'm sure somebody out there might be interested in.
For my very first eCig "kit", I selected the BEST and LARGEST battery I could find. The 1100mAh eGo-C battery fit the bill. I used that battery until I discovered that there WAS a better way to Vape (but that's a story in a different blog post). And quite honestly, I do pull this battery out from time to time, just to see how it performs with various atomizers.
Over the course of my time Vaping, I have used every device I own on this battery. It always lasted at least 24 hours before the blue light started flashing and it always performed as designed. This device won't even power on if your coil is under 1.2 Ohms, but I've used 1.2 ohm and all the way up to 3.0 ohm coils on this unit and it always passed my 24 hour test.
Do I recommend you get one? Well, if you're new to Vaping, then sure! Go get a couple and figure this whole Vaping thing out. If you want the freedom and flexibility to Sub Ohm Vape, or even to make a 1.1 ohm coil for that matter, then you're going to want to get a Mechanical mod.
Too many people are pushing AW IMR batteries and EFest batteries unnecessarily. There's no EMPIRICAL EVIDENCE that proves beyond a shadow of a doubt that you NEED to spend the extra $$$ (or £££ for that matter). Just because I recommend these batteries does not mean that you SHOULD get them for yourself, it means that I can CONFIRM that they WORK WELL. In other words, you could do worse...
Update 10/28/2013: I just wanted to throw one more piece of information into this blog entry. IF and that's a BIG IF, you want to seriously go 100% Subohm Vaping @ ridiculous Wattage levels (remember, Watts is a measurement of HEAT), then you're going to want to find batteries that can withstand 20A or more of current drain. Just as an example, .2Ω @ 4.1V is about 84 Watts. That's just 16 Watts less than a 100 Watt light bulb Ever touch one of those with your bare fingers? I'm just sayin'.... ;) To the best of my recollection, none of the batteries in this review are able to supply more than 10A if memory serves me correctly. 99% of MOST Vaping is done between 5-15W! See what I'm getting at here?
So that's my 18650 & 18350 Battery review. I know there are many choices for batteries out there and I know that there are MANY good batteries for sale, from a variety of countries and manufacturers. Just follow safe practices when dealing with rechargeable Lithium-Ion cells and try to incorporate your cells into a rotation, so that your batteries last a very long time.
If you appreciate what I'm doing here, you know what to do....
Like it, Tweet it, Share it, +1 it, tell your dog about it, etc... ;)
(images used above sourced from http://www.google.com)
Thanks for this amazing review of batteries for ecig. I have lavatube running on 18650 2200mah and an ego-c 1100mah. They sure can last. Happy vaping.
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteThank you for your comments...
I'm glad to see that you have found what you need to have a happy Vaping experience.
For those of you who are just getting started, It's not that it's hard to do, it just takes a little bit of research and anyone can do it!
This is a nice site. Just a FYI on the 3400mah batteries. That is just size not width. Found out if you have a Evic, there are only certain batteries you can use. Samsung, Sony, and Panasonic. This is helping me to quit smoking and its not easy. The juice you pick out make sure there is a flavor you like, but dont over do. If you want a good vape, Evic, Tesla, with Protanks are the best you can go with. Reg'ed at 1.9-2.0 oms. Watts recommended on that tank is 5.2W.you will get a good vape off of it. Do not run the 2000 generic batteries either of the two devices when they are set for 2600 to 3400mHa.
ReplyDeleteThank you for your great post. I really appreciate the efforts you have put in your blog .It is interesting and helpful.
ReplyDeleteBattery Manufacturers in India
Thank you Austin, but I wasn't able to find any information about 18650 or other eCig related batteries at that site. Perhaps you can explain the link?
DeletePastor,
ReplyDeleteThanks for the nice review. The battery issue is confusing for new modder's like me so this was very helpful and practical. It's interesting you review the Ego-C as I've been wondering how long an Ego lasts a heavy vaper such as myself. I'm the person you wrote that couple of paragraphs for! Amazing that your Ego-C passed the 24-hr test. We seem to be very similar vapers re: quantity (and formerly smoking quantity too) and my Ego-C's last me only a couple of hours if they're brand new. This is why I moved to using a mod when at home...in the hopes of not having to change batteries every hour or two. I'd love to find a 24-hr mod (or any e-cig) battery. As of this writing my mod batteries get me through about 1/2 day. I'll try the Samsung's you recommend and see if they do the trick. Thanks.
Anonymous,
DeleteWhat a nice post!
And by the way, you have the special distinction of being the 100th comment on this Blog! ;)
For clarity to those who haven't read my entire Blog, I was a smoker for 30 years. I smoked 2 packs of full-flavored cigarettes per day. I quit and moved to Vaping in one step. I tried a few Vaping items, saw that I could do it, finished my carton of cigarettes (hey, I hate wasting money!) and that was it.
I worked with a 1100mAh (and that's not pronounced MAH, it's spelled out m-a-h) eGo-C battery for the first 4 months. Since I wanted to start using a Rebulidable with coils under 1.2 ohms, I had no choice but to start using Mechanicals and VV/VW devices (of course I had to use the mechanical for anything under 1.2 ohms). I now Vape approximately 4ml of 6mg eLiquid per day. A significant drop in my nicotine intake from just a few months ago, when I was using 18mg! I'm also down from about 6-7ml per day! And I can assure you, I'm not trying, or doing anything special to cut-back. If you get the right device and the right eJuice, it all just falls into place.
Trust me, if you can find a FLAVOR of eLiquid that you like, you can quit smoking too. It doesn't require any willpower and it's kind of like getting a new car. Honda, Ford, Toyota, GM... You get in, adjust your seat and mirror, start the engine, put it in gear and drive! Nothing too difficult to figure out AND you stop putting carcinogens into your body! What's so hard?
I wrote this Blog entry back in June 2013 and i'm STILL using the same 6 Samsung 26F batteries I purchased earlier this year. They are still my favorite!
Thanks for sharing your thoughts Anonymous from Louisiana, I'm glad I could be of some help to you. :)
Can anyone tell me how long should a 18650 charge?
ReplyDeleteI have a single charge charger...its new..only a week...i now have 2 batteries that i have in rotation one is a trust fire
And the other one is gray..i dont know the name
Also my vaping tool right now is a itaste svd
My settings are rather low in the 5.5 range
My issue is the trust fire is only a week old
And i putvit on for charge and 24 hours later the light was still not green....i took the battery off the charge and tested the power in it. My itaste said 4.1
So to check that i out it againstba voltage meter and it was confirmed.
To my understanding a full charge is 4.2
My vape machine turns from green to orange to red on the firing button as the battery level is low. When is it recomended to actually put the battery on the charger?
Any help with this would make my world a little less stressful place
Dave,
DeleteHere's a copy and paste from my ProTank Review - 2nd Followup post:
7. How long does it take to charge the ProTank? - Alright look, I didn't think this one up, I've got dozens of search hits from people looking to have this question answered. Your ProTank is not a battery and can not be charged. A standard eGo-C battery in the 400-700mAh range takes about 4-6 hrs to charge and a 800-1300mAh takes about 8-12 hours to charge. 18650 and 18350 batteries take a similar amount of time to charge. Clearomizers, Atomizers, Glassomizers, Tankomizers, RBA's, etc. do not get charged.
If your 18650 batteries are not charging after 12 hours (turning the light green), then there's a problem with either your batteries or your charger. So if one of your batteries is charging properly and one isn't, then you know it's the battery and not the charger...
As for you "testing the power in it and your itaste said 4.1V", that's opening up a whole can of worms. Voltage and Current are two completely different things, especially when it comes to rechargeable batteries. Just because your meter shows 4.1V, doesn't mean that the battery has properly charged and doesn't mean that its current handling capacity has been completely satisfied, by receiving a proper charge.
9 times out of 10, there's a short inside of the battery, in between the layers, that causes or prevents a complete and proper charge. It's nothing you can fix and could be the result of a manufacturing defect, being connected to the wrong type of charger OR as the result of a DROP onto a hard surface...
Batteries are cheap enough Dave. I'd suggest that you pick up a couple of more reliable cells than what you currently have your hands on. The ones I reviewed are good choices, but there are many other good batteries to choose from out there.
As for how far to let a battery discharge, most VV/VW mods will shut down at 3.2V, so I would say that 3.2V should be your indication that your batteries need to be charged. This is also good to understand NOW, before you start to delve into the "mechanical mod" arena...
The other thing that I should also mention, is to let your battery REST once the charge is complete. In other words, after you take your battery off of charge, set it down and let it sit for a few hours before you use it. Your patience will be rewarded with longer battery life.
Thanks for the questions...
I hope that I've been of some help! :)
PS: I just noticed that you're looking around in several places for answers to this question, and I see that you've already received some answers... A word of warning... "Don't believe everything you're told"....
DeletePastor,
ReplyDeleteYes, I'm a little late in finding this most useful review. But better late then never.
So as useful as this review on batteries is (and yes, my Fasttech order for Samsung 18650s are submitted) have you ever tested what a good charger is?
Richard,
DeleteEXCELLENT QUESTION!
The reason I've never done a charger review, is because the very first charger I purchased (which was actually part of the VAMO 2 kit that I bought), worked and still works great!
The TrustFire TR-001 is what I have. It will charge 2 batteries, anything from a flat-top 18350 all the way up to a protected 18650 with button-top! The only downside to this charger, is that it'll overcharge your battery IF you only charge one at a time (not dangerously, but it's noticeable). If you charge 2 batteries at the same time, it's 100% reliable. It's also downright affordable, so there's no reason to go out and spend $20-$30 on something "prettier". Red light means charging, green light means charged....
One quick note, I'm STILL using the same 6 Samsung 26F's that I purchased more than a year ago and they're still working LIKE BRAND NEW! You really can't go wrong with these guys!
As for being late... It's never too late to be right on time! :)
Thanks for your question and comments!
Thank you very much Pastor
DeleteI am running a kamry k100 with the Icr 18650 2000mah battery. Single coil UD IGO-w4 RDA. The vender I bought it from built the coil for me cuz ive never done it. They finished with a .46ohm count. That calculates to just a tad over 8amps of battery draw. Would you say that any 18650 battery can be pulled at least to 10amps? Or should I think about bringing up the resistant closer to 1ohm?
ReplyDeleteKevin,
DeleteForgive me for pointing this out, but a .46 ohm coil, combined with a fully charged 4.1V battery, is giving you closer to 9 amps! (8.913 to be exact)
Here's what I would say...
If you like that setup and you're going to learn how to replicate that wick/coil combination, then I would absolutely get 10 amp capable batteries.
As for going closer to 1 ohm, I hesitate to recommend this in your situation. If you've found a setup that TASTES GOOD, then once you start playing with your resistance, you're going to play with your flavor too.
Of course, if you do start to experiment with 1 ohm coils, you'll find that the 4 amp draw is much easier on your batteries and that they last 4 times as long! Of course battery safety is a bit more certain at that power level too...
Sorry, it's a tough one to answer in just a sentence or two... :)
Thanks for the question... If you'd like to flush it out a little bit more, I'm happy to oblige...
I would have to say that no matter what resistance I end up with, vaping with an RDA is far more enjoyable then with a tank or cartamizer. With that said, I am not the most electricly enclined person out there, plus I am running with the mystery kamry battery that came with my K100. It seems to be working just fine at .46ohms. The battery doesn't even get hot at all and I am like you...no one ever sees me without it in my hand. Lol. So I guess my question is...as long as I stay with at least a 2000mah battery, is it safe to stay around .5ohms? I know it's a hard thing to recomend without knowing the C-Rating but would you do it?
ReplyDeleteKevin,
DeleteFirst of all, I just want to say that I'm thrilled that you've found something that keeps you away from the nasties! With that said, personally.... Nothing would make *me* happier than to find a cigarette sized and shaped device to Vape with. I'm tired of carrying around a baton! :)
What I would do (and did do) would be to get a larger battery (more mAh), from a manufacturer whose name you trust. I chose Samsung, because their Electronics QC is among the best in the business. (Their appliances are another story, LOL...)
Also, you are correct. I did/do in fact Vape RBA/RDA's with my batteries that have 10A or less limits. Is this a problem @ Subohm levels? Yes and no. Yes, because I'll never be able to get the full power possible. Yes, because as the batteries get older, they'll become less stable and I may end up shorting them out internally. And of course "no", because as long as it's not getting hot and as long as you keep a watchful eye and are responsible, you shouldn't have any problems.... Of course I'm ridiculously safety conscious, so your mileage may vary. Again... The batteries you use, whether from trusted or non-trusted manufacturers, will make all the difference in the world!
I'll answer your follow-up question separately...
Also. How do you feel about running duel cool with a 2000mah battery? I've heard that duels pull more amps then single. I've also heard that it is not a difference in amps. The same amps is devided between the two coils and it just takes a few seconds longer to heat them both up. Can you shed some light on that for me? Thanks
ReplyDeleteKevin,
DeleteYou are asking EXCELLENT QUESTIONS. These are the kind of questions that I see FIGHTS erupt over. The answer is simple...
Here's the short(er) version....
Ohm's law is just that.... A LAW. It's not a theory, it's not "Ohm's Conjecture", it's A LAW! So whether you're an electronics expert or not, all that means, is that TECHNICALLY (in a closed system), whether it's a single or dual coil setup, you *should* draw the same amount of current...
HOWEVER... Fourier had something to add to the mix. Fourier discovered that TEMPERATURE could effect Ohm's Law in real-world application. Apparently changes in the flow of heat can have an effect.
So with that minimum amount of "blah, blah" out of the way, what does this mean? It means that if you get yourself some QUALITY MADE 2600mAh batteries from a TRUSTED SOURCE, you'll never have any trouble getting 24 hours out of your batteries AND they'll last a very long time.
At the time of this writing, I'm STILL USING my original Samsung 26F batteries and they ARE STILL working/charging at 100% efficiency. Even I'm amazed!
As always (and a simple "CYA" for me), your mileage may vary...
Pastor
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for clearing things up for me. I've had my K100 (first mod ever) for about three weeks now and have been using the stock (piece of crap) cartamizer, which is a pain in my rear and a kanger pro tank 2. I just dipped into the world of RDA's a week ago and am already running full throttle with coil ideas and plotting cotton wrapping/stuffing ideas for each cool build. You have definitely shed some good light for me that I have not been able to clear up elsewhwere in this vast world of vaping. Thank you for that...although I do have one last question for now.....I noticed the jibber jabber about chargers above.....also have heard much talk and warnings about unattended charging habbits and nixing overnight charging....I personnally find that chargin over night is the easiest seeing as how I only, at this time have 1 2000mah and 1 900mah battery. I have been searching high an low for a fail-safe charger that stops charging once the battery has indicated a full charge. I can not seem to come up with any luck so I'm beginning to think it doesn't exist...so my only option is to get more batteries to charge during evening hours. What's hour take on this? Is there such a contraption or am I just up a creek without a paddle and forced to bye a hand full of batteries. Thanks again. ~Kevin
Kevin,
DeleteSo glad I could be of some help...
As for the charger....
As you can see from the above "jibber jabber" you referenced, I believe the TR-001 to be a most excellent charger for 18650 & 18350 batteries. Not only has it been reliable for me, but it also has a green light to tell you when it's fully charged! There are some conditions to it's *effective* use though....
1. Always charge IDENTICAL BATTERIES, using BOTH slots simultaneously.
2. NEVER MIX BATTERY CHEMISTRIES.
3. ALWAYS have multiple batteries, IN ORDER TO DEAL WITH CHARGING.
4. NEVER place ANY charger on anything FLAMMABLE (just in case)...
5. Expect a 2600mAh battery to take 8-10 hours to charge. Perfect to start before bedtime...
As for "turning off", it's my understanding that the TR-001 drops down to 40mA when it gets to full charge. 40mA is TINY. Your average cell phone charger that was made 3-4 years ago, charged at 500mA. Your average cell phone charger today is between 1000mA and 2100mA, so 40mA is barely even ON... LOL! There's nothing wrong with "trickle charging" a battery. That's just the way it's "done"...
Don't listen to everything people say (including me)... 99% of what people say is wrong. And 99% of the wrong stuff is wrong because people are just repeating what they're told. The other 1% is usually right, but wading through the 99% is like trying to find a needle in a haystack! It's a lot like Christianity really... 99% of what people know about God, Jesus & The Bible is DEAD WRONG. If I wasn't a Minister, it'd be funny! ;)
Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance...
PS: As I was spell checking what I just wrote, it occurred to me that I should mention that my batteries have NEVER GOTTEN HOT while charging. NEVER. Fact is, there are so many people who never even THINK to ask these questions, so they wind up creating problems, because they don't know how to use what they have. Such is life... This problem isn't isolated to batteries if you catch my drift... :)
hello ive recently purchased some Trustfire 1200mAh 18350 batteries to use in my Vamo and as you no they dont work as they are protected. would it be safe 2 remove the protector off the bottom and use them as a normal battery?
ReplyDeleteUnnown,
DeleteI've used protected 18350 batteries in a VAMO with no problems, however if it's your desire to remove the protection circuit.... I've never seen a problem with doing that. The only 2 issues that I'm aware of, is that you're going to remove your "pretty label" from the battery AND you may find that you've got some solder on the post that had the protection circuit of your battery to remove.
Personally I wouldn't do it, but if that's your wish and you're prepared to deal with the resulting issues, then go for it! :)
Thanks for your question...
Good day pastor Keith. Hope everything is well. I am still going strong with coil builds and am now running with 2 VCT5 batteries and it gives me a much better piece of mind. Lol. I've tried a lot of different builds and and come to the conclusion that my best luck on baling quality has been accomplished with my current build; which is a duel parallel dragon coil and it sitting beautifully at .20ohms. I took and folded a piece of 26 Guage kanthal and put the two ends in a drill and made a super tight twisted parallel. I wrapped it around the needle of a vape suringe making a nano coil. I had to build it as a sleeper because two sets of this wire would not fit in the center post. Lol. It was a difficult build but it's an awesome vape and I'd do it again and again. With that said my VCT5 2000mah batteries are amazing and I'd recommend them. I start my vaping day at about 6:30am and I don't see any affects of a dieing battery until about 8:00pm. So I'm glad I have two. I've learned a valuable lesson that you should never ever have only one. Just thought I'd share that with you. Have a good one pastor. :)
ReplyDeleteKevin,
DeleteSo nice to hear from you!
I'm so happy to hear that you've found a reliable setup that keeps you happy AND keeps you away from the nasties! :)
Excellent advice and thanks for the reference to the Sony batteries. It's like I said in the original article, "TRUST IS NOT GIVEN, IT IS EARNED". If you happen to think about it, please let me know how much life you get out of the VCT5's... :)
Blessings...
Let me start off by saying that I personally don't see a difference between the vct4 and the vct5. They are both excellent batteries. To answer your question; I am a heavy vaper. With that said, your coil setup and vape frequency determines your battery life. For example: if I run 26 Guage dragon nano coils ( coils that are wrapped using the needle of a drip bottle) I will go through about 3 to 5ml a day(with a .20ohm setup). I start vaping at about 7am. I don't usually need a new battery till about 6 or 7 at night. I would make an educated guess and say that is eqivalant to someone who smokes a pack of cigs a day. Now Keith, I'm sure I don't need to remind you of this but for those who are reading this and aren't as educated, the more length of wire you use in your setup the lower your resistance. The lower your resistance the hotter your burn, the hotter you burn the quicker you use up juice and BATTERY LIFE. At the time of this post I am running duel triple parallel 1/8in coils at 6 wraps. I'm subing at .07ohms That is insane!!!!!! The experience is like none other. My entire mod gets hot if i take more then 2 big hits at once but I have full unadulterated faith in my vct4's and 5's that they can handle it. I trust them almost as much as I trust God!! This is my first full day with this set up. I needed a new battery at around 2pm. Again your battery life is all in the coil set up. So I would say that if you are playing it safe and running 1.0 coils and vape as much as I do, you could go all day with one battery and then some
ReplyDeleteI have 3 batteries for my vamo v3: Samsung ICR 2800mah, AW IMR 2000mah, Efest 2500mah (newest efest battery). ALLLLLL of them last a very long time for me considering I haven't gotten into rebuilding yet. I just use my plain-jane 2.5 ohm coil on my Protank. Perfect set up for me!!!!!
ReplyDeleteI have go through this page and its blog for more follow our blog:-Mechanical vaping mods have brought in change in science of vaping. People now are much more aware of the present day situations and can easily try to leave smoking with the help of these. The best part of this is that with the use of 18650 battery vapeand aw battery 18650 one can learn the process easily and quickly
ReplyDeleteHello, I just bought a Kamry K101 kit which came with a 18650 Kamry brand battery. I want to try a set up with a dual dragon coil on a Pyrro RDA. I was wondering what ohms will be safe with this battery and coil build. Also...I am guessing I should buy a new battery or two which are of higher qualily. I just want to make sure I am doing this safely. New to building coils and understanding ohms. Thanks!!! ;)
ReplyDeleteHello everybody,
ReplyDeleteI got a lot of information from reading all the statements here and I learned what are the good batteries and chargers are. Actually I don't know how I found this page but am glad I did. I sell ecigs at a little flea market in my little town of Dallas, NC and as somebody mentioned in a comment here stated that the mechanical mods are basically coming to the forefront and I purchased 25 of the VARO V5 Mods from a wholeseller in China for $14.25 for each one and I am looking for batteries now and low and behold I found this website. If anyone knows a good place to purchase some of thee top quality batteries that everyone mentioned and chargers could suggest where to nut at wholesale as many as 25 to 50, I would appreciate seeing someone comment on this.
Thanks
Rck
"I'm subing at .07ohms"
ReplyDeleteI'm guessing, or rather hoping, this was meant as "0.7" - otherwise generally not good. That's like 60 amps. 0.7 is safe, with the VTC's however, 0.07 is not..
Thanks for sharing this great article! That is very interesting I love reading and I am always searching for informative information like this.
ReplyDeletesigelei
Great writeup! Even greater when you update your battery status. Just a quick q. Im using the same battery, samsung 26f. Its an ICR. After all the fuss about it's getting blown, i am worried. My ideal setup would be 0.3ohm * 20watts. Due to the exploding tales, ive reduced it to 0.5ohm * 20watts. Is my setup ok or im gonna lose my face soon?
ReplyDelete