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Mark 10:27 - But Jesus looked at them and said, "With men it is impossible, but not with God; for with God all things are possible."

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Thursday, August 1, 2013

Kanger ProTank Review - 2nd Followup

UPDATE: Please participate in our anonymous POLL.  It's for a really good cause!

Both of my blog entries regarding the ProTank are in the Top 5 of the all time page hits on this site.  I promised (somewhere) that I'd do a second followup and this is it!


I've said this before and I'll say it again, Kanger really knocked one out of the park, not so much with the ProTank itself, but with the design of their BC Atomizer (bottom coil).

To date, I can find at least 9 10 lots of devices, some made by Kanger and some not, that are designed around using the ProTank atomizers...




 Here's a list of the ones that I know of:
I don't know about you, but I think that's a whole bunch of devices!  What does this mean?  Well, it means that we can feel a certain comfort that Kanger will continue to make these heads for a while.

Update 8/27/2013: A whole wave of ProTank compatibles/clones came out in China last week.  Multiple companies are making them in a variety of shapes and sizes.  There's even one that looks like a CE4!!!


Update 10/28/2013: Take a look at THIS Blog entry for a comprehensive list of all of the known ProTank compatibles.  The list has grown....

But what I'd like to do in this blog entry, is cover some of the many questions that I see popping up in the logs, that many of you are searching for... Let's take a look....


1. Why is my eLiquid turning colors in my ProTank? - I've been using the ProTank for months now and I've used everything I can throw at it...  There are 2 times that your eLiquid will turn colors (under normal conditions I suppose)....

  1. Once your ProTank atomizer head has become fouled, you may notice a couple of things happening.  First, you may notice a reduced Vapor output.  Second, you may notice your eJuice tastes funny.  Third, you may notice that your eLiquid is changing colors.  What to do?  Change your atomizer head!  If you're a heavy Vaper like me, your heads should average about 10-14 days of use.  Longer, if you don't Vape as much as me.
     
  2. I have found that once I'm down to about 1ml of eLiquid AND when my atomizer head is starting to get old (but not fouled yet), that sometimes the gunk on the coil mingles with the eLiquid and it'll change colors.  What to do?  Sacrifice that small amount of eLiquid and refill with FRESH!  POOF, problem solved!  Just for clarity, this isn't a ProTank specific issue, it happens with most devices.
2. What's the best resistance to use? 1.8Ω, 2.2Ω, 2.4Ω, 2.5Ω??? - Well, I don't know what the "best" resistance to use is, but I can tell you what's been making me very happy...  I've been using the 2.5Ω heads @ 3.7V (sometimes @ 4.2V, depending on the eLiquid).  I've tried the 1.8Ω and 2.2Ω heads (I've heard that there are 2.4Ω heads, but I've never seen them personally) and all I can tell you, is that they burn every eLiquid I throw at them.  I've got to use a VV (variable voltage) APV at really low voltages in order to get them to provide a good experience.  Good, not great.  If you've got sensitive taste buds like me, I believe you'll find that the 2.5Ω heads are your best bet.

3. Why is my ProTank flooding? - I've traced this back to 2 possible things.  As with all things, there may be other factors, but these are the 2 that I know cause flooding.

  1. Somebody out there got the bright idea of removing one of the "flavor wicks" from the ProTank heads.  By removing one of the wicks, you're supposed to get better flavor and it's supposed to work better with high VG content eLiquids.  Well that hasn't been my experience.  If you doctor your atomizer head and remove a wick, you're going to flood your device.
     
  2. 100% VG and Reduced PG eLiquids are too thick and cause flooding with the ProTank heads.  When I started using an RBA, I moved to 100% VG, in order to maximize my Vapor production.  When I moved to the ProTank, I thought that I needed to continue to use high percentage VG in order to accomplish this.  I was wrong.  I am currently using 90% PG / 10% VG eLiquid in my ProTank and I get TONS of Vapor and I'm a happy camper.  Now on the flip side, if you have a particular eJuice you like, say Boba's Bounty...  If you want to use the ProTank, fine, just live with the flooding.  It's not too bad, it still works.  But if you don't like the flooding, then find another eLiquid.  50-50 PG/VG works great and doesn't flood.  Just keep in mind, some eLiquid makers don't know how to reliably produce 50-50 mixes, so your mileage may vary.
     
  3. Added 8/17/2013: Here's a new one!  If you leave your ProTank somewhere HOT, like your car, in your pocket while outside cleaning, on a windowsill, etc, it will flood!  I was out back pressure cleaning today and had my VAMO 3 with my X10 in my pocket and after about 30 minutes I went to take a Vape and it was flooded!  It took about 4 Vapes to get it under control, so that's good.  I suppose that the eLiquid gets a bit thinner when it warms up, so it stands to reason that there might be "more" eLiquid in your wicking area than normal.
4. What's the best APV or MOD to use with my ProTank? - You know what?  They all work great.  From the lowly eGo-C, to the Sigelei mods, VAMO, Lavatube, Natural, etc., from what I've experienced first hand, to what I've read from others, there is no "best".  They work great on whatever you have (as long as you have a 510 connection in there somewhere!)  Now, if you want your Vape to look like a matched set, if you're using an eGo-C battery, use an EVOD, ProTank Mini or a VTOX.  If you're using an APV or MOD, go for the X10, as it's currently the ONLY ONE that is the same diameter as an average MOD.

5. So what's better?  The AnyVape Davide, DBOX PuriTank, KamryTech X10, Kanger EVOD, Kanger Mini ProTank, Kanger ProTank 1.0, Kanger ProTank 2.0, Vision Victory, Vision V-Tox? - Haven't you read my KamryTech X10 review?  All of these devices use THE SAME ATOMIZER HEAD.  Take the head out of your ProTank and stick it in the Davide and guess what?  It's still a ProTank!  Take it out of the Davide and stick it in the PuriTank and guess what?  Yeah, still a ProTank!  You can decide which one is best for you, by considering 2 factors:

  1. How much do you want to spend?  For about $20, you can buy any of those devices.  For my money, I'd rather have the least expensive one, that meets my needs.
     
  2. Of course that leads us here, where you can decide which one you think is the "prettiest" in your eyes.  I've got to admit, the ProTank 2 is a really nice looking device, but I don't think it's worth $20.  My KamryTech X10 was under $7, it comes in 5 different colors AND you can remove the colored sleeve altogether if you prefer the "naked" look.  I have and I really like it like that.  Read the Blog post HERE to help you decide which ProTank or ProTank compatible that you think is best...
6. Is it worth it to rebuild your ProTank atomizer? - Have you seen how small this thing is?



Seriously, the wick (the first item to the right of that US Dime), including the legs of the coil, fit inside of a dime. Now I know that it only takes about 2¢ of Kanthal wire to rebuild your coil, but is it really worth it, when for about $1.50 you can have a whole new atomizer that's ready to go?  For me, it's just not worth it to rebuild.  Having to get 3 tiny pieces of wick (in 2 different sizes) and then steady it on a needle and make my 6 wraps of wire is just too much. Of course, like I said in my original review, "If you're used to handling such small things, your mileage may vary" (at least that's what I think I said).

7. How long does it take to charge the ProTank? - Alright look, I didn't think this one up, I've got dozens of search hits from people looking to have this question answered.  Your ProTank is not a battery and can not be charged.  A standard eGo-C battery in the 400-700mAh range takes about 4-6 hrs to charge and a 800-1300mAh takes about 8-12 hours to charge.  18650 and 18350 batteries take a similar amount of time to charge.  Clearomizers, Atomizers, Glassomizers, Tankomizers, RBA's, etc. do not get charged.


8. How should I clean my ProTank? - I do this a lot.  I use the same technique on both my ProTank and the X10.  Disassemble your tank, empty your eLiquid out (or reserve it if it's still good), place a drop or two of dish-soap (I use Dawn) inside of your tank and turn on the hot water.  I rinse it out until the bubbles and any eLiquid smell are gone.  When I change eLiquids, I rinse my atomizer head too (without soap) and I also wash and rinse the base as well.  Just be VERY CAREFUL that you don't lose the very thin gasket that comes with the base.  You'll be sorry if you do.  Once they're clean, I blow them out, making sure I get rid of about 99% of the water and then I load them back up and reassemble.  Couldn't be any easier.


9. My ProTank base is broken, can it be replaced? - The ProTank 1 bases were originally (possibly still are) made of a very thin stainless steel, that is prone to snap where the 510 connector meets the base itself.  If you're in possession of a ProTank 1 with a broken base, you can find a replacement at the following locations:


DiscountVapers ProTank 1 Base Replacement (US)

Free-Cigs.com ProTank 1 Base Replacement (US)

While I'm sure that there are other places to get them, the above 2 e-tailers have shown their commitment to "service what they sell" and both of them do their best to keep them in stock.  

Also available in other parts of the world here:


iVapour.co.uk ProTank 1 Base Replacement (UK)

VapourSolutions.com ProTank 1 Base Replacement (CAN)
VapeKing.com.au ProTank 1 Base Replacement (AUS)

Now as I understand it, Kanger designed the ProTank 2 base to be an exact match for the ProTank 1 body.  So I can only assume that if you've purchased a ProTank 2, that you won't be having this problem, as Kanger has publicly stated that they've strengthened the metal.  Again, I'm not making the claim, I'm just reporting what I've heard and read with my own eyes and ears.  Of course if you have an X10, the base is made extremely well and so far is standing up pretty well to constant use.  I have no information on the other products.


Update 8/17/2013: It was pointed out to me today, that gotvapes.com is advertising ProTank base replacements and that the ProTank base fits not only the 1 & 2, but also the Davide.  I don't have one to confirm it, but I would tend to believe GotVapes.


10. Am I better off using EVOD or ProTank heads in my ProTank? - I've tried them both (as well as the X10 heads) and I can only say this.  If you want lots of Vapor and good flavor, then you want to use the ProTank heads.  The EVOD heads naturally have a tighter draw, which means less air flow across your coil.  Less air flow AUTOMATICALLY equals less Vapor and less flavor.  So sure, the EVOD heads will work in a pinch, but you really want to be using the ProTank heads.  And that goes for the X10 and I'm assuming the others as well.  Remember, it's your atomizer that's doing the work, not your tank.


So that's it for now.  Those are the 10 most searched for questions about the ProTank.  Please pass the link to this page along to anyone that might need it and go ahead and bookmark this page, if you want to be sure to find it in the future.


Links to all of my ProTank-related posts:


Original Kanger ProTank Review

ProTank Followup Review
Kanger ProTank Review - 2nd Followup
Kanger EVOD Review
KamryTech X10 Review
ProTank Head Longevity Study
Kanger UniTank (Non-Review)
Devices that use the ProTank Atomizer Heads

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26 comments:

  1. Great Article! Tks for all the info.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hey Anonymous,

      You're welcome!

      Thanks for your comments!

      Delete
    2. to whom it may concern: protanks, bases, ect were NEVER EVER made from stainless steel, period. that was a fable invented by the dealers and distributors to make the consumer think they were getting a much better product than they actually were/are. ive been in contact with kangertech personally ( and have the emails to PROVE IT with the names of the employees,ect) about this issue. when i brought this issue to their attention ( the claims of the protank being stainless) i was told that they were NEVER stainless, and kangertechs webpage description of the protank now reflects that point. the protank is a base metal brass, thats copper washed, and then chrome washed.

      Delete
    3. Anonymous,

      Why the hate?
      Why the anger?
      Why the CAPS?

      I'm no metallurgist, but I examined the one ProTank base (that I had) that broke and looking at the BARE METAL revealed no other color than the silver normally associated with Stainless Steel.

      Whether it's made of Stainless, Brass or Copper, it's just the base. It makes no difference in the grand scheme of things. The ProTank and it's variants perform wonderfully and reliably, most of them are reasonably priced and Kanger stands by what they sell, in that they make replacement parts available.

      Additionally, I visit the Kanger website often and I am currently unable to find anything to substantiate your claim.

      This Blog is happy to hear about your thoughts and your experiences, but there's no need to be rude.

      Delete
  2. Great blog posts. A bit about batteries though. There are a couple of factors that go into the battery charging that impacts the amount of time it takes to recharge them.

    Batteries like to be charged at a specific rate; 1C. When you get a charger they have a number like 450mah (typical USB charger). So, if you've got a Vision Spinner 1350mah battery and it is completely drained (which is shouldn't be 100% drained), it would take almost 3 hours using a 450mah charger. However, if you use a 1350mah charger (not like to find one, but a 1000mah chargers are common) it would only take 1 hour. 1C for a 650mah battery is means a 650mah charger would charge it in 1 hour.

    I never charge any of my batteries at more than 1C. It is possible, but you run risk of damaging the battery and or having them get too hot and in worst case scenarios catch fire. So, stick to as close to 1C as you can or live with longer charging at a slower rate.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hey Sean,

      While I appreciate you adding in the extra info on batteries and charging, the point of #7 was to point out that the ProTank is NOT a battery. LOL...

      Thank you for taking the time to comment!

      Delete
    2. I really enjoyed reading all you had to say. You're a good writer! I have a question for you (if that's legal). I have a Protank 2 and think I accidently bought the wrong coil heads... called X10, because they were a good deal on FastTech. That'll teach me to be more careful. But...can I possibly use those on the Kanger Protank? Or do I have to buy a Clearo that uses the X10?

      Delete
    3. Hey Jane,

      You caught me on vacation in Boston, but I wanted to take a moment to answer your question!

      You can use the X10 heads with your ProTank 2, but the draw will be really stiff AND you may notice a burnt taste too. I'd stick with the real ones if I were you...

      FastTech is great, but those knockoff heads are awful!

      No laws broken, thanks for the question...

      Delete
    4. Thanks Pastor Keith, for your good reply. This was a case of "I didn't look at the Ad closely enough". And I now see the Kanger coil heads are out of stock. No wonder. Well, thanks again and enjoy the rest of your vacation! :)

      Delete
  3. brilliant write up
    thanks for taking the time to review and explain.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anonymous,

      Thank you so much for your comment!

      I'm constantly amazed at the overwhelmingly positive comments I get from Canada...

      Good luck getting Boba's Bounty though...
      Better get in line! ;)

      Delete
  4. Very helpful and great info. I've been looking everywhere for 2.5 ohm heads with no luck. i like to vape aat 4.2-4.6 depending on what time of day it is.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ashino,

      LOL!

      These ProTank heads really are a Godsend!

      Thank you for sharing your thoughts...

      Delete
  5. I am very new to the tank systems, I've always done (more than 3yrs now tobacco free) lr510 atty's and love their flavor. I tried the vivi nova but lost it, then ended up with a not so good knock off. I am now trying the kanger unitank with the 1.5 atty's. awesome vapor but poor flavor and if hit on to often (as much as tobacco cig smoking) it seems dry and or burnt taste. Any thoughts on how to fix this?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sandra,

      Yes, I do have a couple of ideas...

      First of all, congrats on 3 years tobacco free! :)

      As for the ProTank (whether it's a mini, 2, 3, unitank, X10, etc), I have found that if you're using an eLiquid with too high a percentage of VG, that it can't keep up and does what you said.

      But quite honestly, what you describe can even happen with an RBA or RDA. Sometimes if you hit too much (hotbox in the Analog world), the wick just can't keep up with what you're asking from it. Quite honestly, the amount of heat being created from hitting too much also tends to make your eLiquid turn colors and taste funky/burnt too.

      I never liked hotboxing, as it made the cigarette smoke TOO HOT and quite honestly, it made me gag... Uggh, just thinking about the taste of the hot ashes and the gag-reflex is kicking in... LOL!

      Regardless of what device you're using, I would just Vape a little slower and I'm betting the problem will go away!

      Thank you for the question! :)

      Delete
  6. hi, i got themvp 2 and purchased a protank 2 to run alongside the i-clear 30 that came with the mvp. My problem is I can't get the protank to fire up, tried 2 wicks, the second one worked with a tiny amount oif liquid, so I then topped the tank up and now it won't fire up again. Do you have any advice as to what I have done wrong?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anonymous from Surrey, UK,

      What an excellent question...

      1. The first thing that I would want to know, is when you have the ProTank connected, what resistance is being read by the MVP2? If the resistance is a match for the type of head you have installed in your PT, then move on to #2. If the resistance is WRONG, my immediate thoughts would be that you're not screwing your heads in correctly. I've personally helped a few dozen beginners with this problem. It'll appear as if the atomizer heads are screwed in properly, but they're not.

      2. Remove the "beauty ring" and let's try it again. *PERHAPS*, there's some kind of short taking place when you FIRE the MVP2, that isn't registering when you check the resistance. If so, then you have a problem that will require a tear-down and rebuild of your MVP2 or if it's still under warranty, then perhaps a swap-out is in order?

      3. For the sake of this part, please make your unit function in VV mode instead of VW mode. Set your unit at 3.5V (just to be safe, since I don't know what heads you're using) and see if your mod is firing. The thought here, is if you're using it in VW mode, perhaps you've got it set too low?

      4. I probably should have mentioned this first, but I'm taking a leap here and ASSUMING you have an AUTHENTIC ProTank with AUTHENTIC ProTank coils. If not, then I'd have to make a small leap here and say that perhaps you've got a manufacturing problem with a knockoff? If the threads weren't machined properly, you'll never get the heads screwed in sufficiently. I think that's unlikely, but possible.

      5. Have you attempted to slightly raise the centerpost of your 510/eGo connector on the MVP2? It's a somewhat common problem on APV's that you don't see on a mechanical. I've never done it on an MVP/MVP2, but I'd assume a wee amount of upward prying on the centerpost should raise it a tad. Do your homework on this first! I don't want you damaging your unit if this isn't supported by your device.

      The only thing that smells fishy here, is that you say you've gotten it to work with a small amount of liquid. That's somewhat confusing, if you know what I mean...

      Thanks for your question, I hope that I've either been of some assistance or that you figure it out on your own. I'm fairly confident that if you can get this sorted, you'll find the ProTank to be a significant upgrade from the iClear 30's. I tried one right after they came out and found them to be so inferior that I didn't even bother to purchase one for a review.

      Please let us know if you get it squared away...

      Delete
  7. Thank you so much for such a comprehensive reply. The solution was to screw the atomizer into the base!!!!! What an idiot I was. I thought it sat in the tank then screwed the base on,. Obviously this didn't allow the atomizer to be low enough to connect with the battery.

    A newbie error and I do hope I haven't been the only one to make this mistake. I do love the tank, and sort of playing around now to find the wattage and voltage combitions that suit. I assume this is a trial and error thing or is there a guide. Probably a taste thing.

    Thanks again for the assistance

    Steve

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Steve,

      You're very welcome!

      Looks like #1 was all you needed! Figures!
      Leave it to me to want to cover all the bases... (excuse the pun)

      I do the same thing with my Ministry work... Nothing upsets me more than when other Pastors tell people "Trust me, it's in there..." If people take the time to actually ASK questions, they deserve an answer that they can see with their eyes and process with their brains! :)

      Thanks for letting everyone share in your learning curve...
      And just for the record, you're not the first to misunderstand!
      Perhaps Kanger should ship them with 1 installed instead of in the package!

      Hope to see you around more in the future...

      Delete
    2. LOL I did the same thing when I first started, as many others did I'm sure. LOL

      Delete
  8. Hi Keith, yes, they should definately come assembled then you can see exactly what is what, and the guide doesn't really make things obvious.
    I am sure that all points beyond #1 will be very helpful in the future to people who come here in a panic!

    Once more thank you
    Steve

    ReplyDelete
  9. Hello,

    I have a vision spinner 2013 with a Kanter T2 Atomizer. Do you know if the Protank will work with this?

    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Seanbelly,

      Yes, the Vision Spinner and the Kanger T2 atomizer are compatible with each other. If you're using a Spinner, I'd recommend you move over to an EVOD instead of the T2. Not only will you find the flavor BETTER, you'll also find that replacing your atomizer is less expensive AND that it's more reliable too!

      Thanks for the question!

      Delete
  10. Would like to know your thoughts on what would be the best cig lookalike for smoking outdoors and not looking like a nerd?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anonymous,

      What an EXCELLENT question! As a matter of fact, if you read one of my more recent posts...

      http://tastyvapers.blogspot.com/2013/12/wanted-for-2014-happy-holidays.html

      You'll see that I'm going to begin specializing in reviewing EXACTLY those types of devices...

      If you're in a rush and you need something for a particular day/event, I'd recommend you bite the bullet and pick up an NJOY KING. They cost about $10, have 18mg nicotine and they taste REALLY GOOD. But for $10, they're NOT an every day device, because that's about how long they last... 1 day.

      Keep your eyes on my blog, as I'm bringing in and trying to develop relationships with an assortment of companies, in order to find the "perfect" devices!

      Thanks for the TIMELY question! :)

      Delete
  11. 100% agree about the flavour wicks--removing them definitely causes flooding!

    ReplyDelete


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